Not too far south of Branson is a very interesting Arkansas town. We drove down and spent most of a day checking out the unique community of Eureka Springs. We found it to be a real gem.
Tourist brochures describe Eureka Springs as a Victorian Mountain Village with a 100+ year old Carnegie library and the largest collection of Victorian architecture in the central states. The town is nestled in the dense woods and steep canyons of the Ozarks. Since there’s virtually no flat land, everything was built on the steep rocky slopes. Neighborhoods and even the downtown area are served by very narrow streets.
Many of the streets are just a single lane, so passing oncoming vehicles can be a real challenge. There is limited parking downtown but we soon discovered that parking is very hard to find where we needed it most. A local trolley helps shuttle people around town from several park-n-ride lots.
Many of the old towns that we have visited started out as mining boom towns, agricultural centers or railroad connections. Eureka Springs is different. It was an 1870s boom town, but people came here for the beauty and, more importantly, to soak in the “healing waters” of its many natural springs. Many artists also came here to live and set up their studios and shops. The town is still a popular vacation spot with lots of funky shops, health spas and art galleries occupying the restored brick and rock buildings.
The Crescent Hotel (1886) is known as the “Symbol of Hospitality” for the State of Arkansas. It sits high on a hill overlooking the community and, as you can see, most of the town is hidden in the dense woods below.
The hotel is famous for offering the finest in spa, dining and relaxation. They claim a ghost resides in the hotel and that TVs “Ghost Hunters” caught a full-bodied apparition on video. A nightly $18 guided ghost tour keeps visitors looking (but not us).
Bonnie found shady relief from the heat on the Crescent Hotel's patio.
We stopped to take a look at St. Elizabeth Catholic Church. Very nice.
The main entrance is through the bell tower and down this walkway.
This friendly cat seemed to be the unofficial church greeter.
Thorncrown Chapel (below) is one of the most significant structures in Eureka Springs. It was built by Pine Bluff native Jim Reed who intended to build his retirement home on the property. But, because of its unique setting, he decided instead to build a small chapel to give travelers a place to relax in an inspiring environment. The chapel opened in 1981. It's 425 windows and over 6,000 sq. ft. of glass help integrate the structure into its woodsy setting. It’s a popular place for retreats, weddings and other special occasions.
The chapel is clearly not Victorian, but is considered “one of the finest religious spaces of modern times.” The American Institute of Architecture gave it their Design of the Decade award for the 1980s and placed it fourth on its list of top buildings of the twentieth century.
Eureka Springs would be a good place to spend a couple weeks relaxing, being pampered in the health spas, soaking in the spring water and reflecting on the good things in life. But, since we didn't have that kind of time (or money), we returned to Branson over the rolling hills of Ozark country. It was a very nice day indeed!
