Crossing Idaho

The threat of a nasty windstorm kept us in Bend a day longer than intended. It blew through eastern Oregon on May 3 with 60 mph gusts. The following day was clear and relatively calm, so we packed up and headed east toward Idaho on Highway 20.

We went as far as Burns, Oregon, on May 4 and set up camp at a small RV park at the edge of town. We unhooked the Honda and immediately discovered that the battery was dead. Fortunately, the park’s handyman gave us a quick jump so Ron could drive into town and have the battery tested at the local Les Schwab store. The battery had some serious cell problems, so we now have a new one.

Burns was a major decision point. Should we venture south through the scenic wilderness to Winnemucca and across northern Nevada? Or, should we take the shorter and easier route to Utah through southern Idaho? Cold snowy weather forecasts pointed us toward the Idaho route, so we continued east on lonesome Highway 20.

This part of Oregon is sparsely populated and beautiful in its own natural way. Stinkingwater Pass (4,800 ft.) and Drinkwater Pass took us over minor ridges to wide valleys of sage, grasslands, occasional crops and herds of cattle and horses . . . something interesting around every turn. Some small towns that appeared on our map failed to materialize. The town of Harney evaporated and is now a former town site. We blinked and totally missed Buchanan and Juntura. We pulled off the road at Brothers for a quick sandwich. It consists of the Stage Stop and a handful of buildings that have seen better days.

The prettiest part of this drive was along the Malheur River as it flowed through a long winding canyon nearly to the town of Vale. As we approached Vale, dark clouds closed in and snow began to fall. Yup, snow . . . in May. Since it was springtime in most places, we weren’t too concerned. But, the snow came down harder and soon it was sticking on the highway and our windshield. Before we knew it, we were creeping along in a full blown blizzard.

Fortunately, the blizzard didn’t last long. By the time we got to Vale, it was over. It was May 5, so we ducked into Chabelitas Taqueria in downtown Vale and had an excellent Cinco de Mayo lunch and cold mug of Tecate. From Vale, it was a short drive to I-84 and Idaho. We passed through Boise and continued on to the small town of Glenn’s Ferry where we checked into Three Island Crossing State Park on the banks of the Snake River.

The significance of the three islands is that they provided a way for wagon trains on the Oregon Trail to cross the Snake River and continue on to Fort Boise. The river was large and fast. It was a major barrier to the settlers and there were very few good places to cross. An interpretive center at the park told the story of the crossing and the local section of the Oregon Trail.

Around 1850 the Oregon Trail was like a freeway for settlers. As many as 55,000 people followed it west in one year. The local Indian residents weren’t too thrilled about that but couldn’t do much to stop the flow.  A portion of the Oregon Trail was etched into the side of the hills leading down to the river. It can still be seen clearly and looks like a road cut in the photo below.

Much later, a guy named Gus Glenn established a ferry business at this location and the town became known as Glenn’s Ferry.

We took an afternoon drive to a local ridge top to get a good view of the three islands, the river and the valley.

The state park had some nice trails along the river that we shared with a family of deer.

Next stop . . . Utah!

Almost Spring in Bend

We arrived in Bend on Tuesday (April 27) and checked into our 1000 Trails campground for a six-day stay.  The campground was just south of Bend near the resort community of Sunriver, at an elevation of 4,200 ft.  Being from the coastal climate, we underestimated the length of the Eastern Oregon winter. Night temperatures were in the shivvering mid-20s with occasional snow showers.  Daytimes got into the almost balmy mid-40s.  Fortunately, our propane furnace was working well and Bonnie brought along plenty of warm coats, sweatshirts and blankets.

The campground has 300 sites but only a handfull of occupants at this time of the year.  Things don't start jumping until Memorial Day.  So, it was very quiet and peaceful with no noise from freeways, railroads or airports . . . just the breeze through the pine trees.  We enjoyed watching the geese, ducks, chipmunks and a large porcupine along the banks of the Little Deschutes River.

The City of Bend was about 15 miles north.  It's a very attractive community along the Deschutes River.  According to local statistics, the city grew from 29,000 people in 1995 to 81,000 today.  It could probably be considered a modern "boom town".  We noticed lots of activity, lots of traffic and more intersection roundabouts than we've seen anywhere. 

We read about Baldy's Barbecue in a local "Where to Dine" brochure and went there for lunch.  Excellent food!!!

One of the main "not to miss" places is the High Desert Museum.  We spent several hours at this fantastic world class museum.  Indoor exhibits featured area farming and mining history and history of the Plateau Indian tribes.  There was also an art gallery featuring large-scale aerial photography, a cafe and, of course, a gift shop.

The museum also includes 135 acres of outdoor nature, bird and other wild animal exhibits, including golden and bald eagles, hawks, owls and other birds that were injured and rescued and can't be returned to the wild.  A bird handler gave a presentation and close-up look at a beautiful 33 year old hawk (below) named Farrah.  She has been at the museum since 1978 when she was rescued.

The museum grounds also included an otter pond, trout ponds and streams, a century old sawmill and a replica of a typical 1800s homestead (below), complete with family in period attire.

On a nice sunny day, we took a loop drive from Sunriver to Mt. Bachelor and back to Bend.  Skiing was excellent with no lift lines at all.  We drank some hot chocolate at the lodge to warm us up while watching the skiers come down the mountain.

More wildlife!  A couple of deer wandered along the edge of the woods.

May Day was approaching and we were looking forward to celebrating our anniversary over a nice steak dinner at one of the local restaurants.  We checked out the many possibilities and settled on Boondockers, which was nearby and had a good menu.  We were surprised to arrive and find a fire truck in the parking lot with hoses leading in the front door.  Apparently, they had a small electrical fire.  It didn't do a lot of damage, but filled the building with smoke.  Thus, our reservation was cancelled and we dined on pasta at a very nice Italian restaurant in Sunriver.

We had a good time in Bend, but it's time to move on down the highway once again . . .

What's Left of Shaniko

Tuesday, April 27 was a party sunny day as we headed east up the Columbia River, turned right at Biggs and climbed the long winding highway out of the gorge.  We stopped for lunch at the old town of Shaniko on the high plains.  The town began as a farming settlement in the 1870s.  It was first known as Cross Hollows.  The Columbia Southern Railway helped make it an important center for wheat, cattle and sheep production.  For a while, it was known as "The Wool Capital of the World."  The name was later changed to Shaniko and it incorporated in 1902.

At the time of the 2000 Census, Shaniko had a population of 26.  It hasn't grown much since then.  In fact, it may have shrunk a bit.  In any case, it's still an interesting place.  It's evident that the locals take pride in their town and are trying hard to preserve and restore what remains.

We chatted with the Postmaster for a while and bought out her supply of post card stamps (all 3).  She told us the Hotel Shaniko (below), the largest building in town, has been vacant and for sale for the past three years. She said the absentee owner has turned down offers because he feels "Shaniko has not yet suffered enough."  She didn't elaborate and we didn't ask.  It sounded like a personal thing.

Shaniko's boardwalks are in good shape and the old 3-cell jail is intact and being preserved.  Vacant lots and fields around town are littered with old car and truck bodies, farming equipment and other abandoned hardware from long ago.  Ron is particularly fascinated by old relics (and junk).

A decade ago, the old Shaniko School was falling apart.  The wood was bare, the roof was half gone and it appeared to be ready to fall.  We were happy to see that it has since been repaired, painted a beautiful (?) green and is now a museum (open in the summer).

Shaniko has managed to maintain a sense of historic character.  It hasn't been cheapened by fast food joints, gas stations or motels.  Just a small variety/grocery store and the Post Office provide for the local needs.  A few arts and crafts shops are also open during the summer months to bring in a few dollars and bolster the local tourist economy.  We were too early.  The sky was darkening and rain was approaching, so we took cover, finished our lunch and continued south toward Bend.